High and Low – John Galliano  – Film Review
by Brian Merriman

Director: Kevin Macdonald
Stars: John Galliano, Steven Robinson, Alexi Roche, Penélope Cruz, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss

“Examines the rapid ascent, fall from grace, and journey forward for controversial fashion designer John Galliano.”

About 150 years ago, the titular role in Gilbert & Sullivan’s light opera ‘The Mikado’ muses that the “punishment fits the crime”. Indeed, that principle of justice has preoccupied lawmakers and judges for millennia, though not many seem to have succeeded in finding the correct balance.

Even during ‘The Inquisition’, some of the interrogated were offered redemption in return for a fake conversion and renouncement of their beliefs. Today, we offer no such redemption, have more opaque “laws” and so many “judges” sitting in that most unforgiving ‘Court of Public Opinion’. Cancel culture has no channel of appeal.

Let me be crystal clear. There is an endless stream of bad behaviour, despite more advanced laws and shared mores. The ‘poor’ are still regularly checked by peers, family, colleagues and society. The “rich” not as much, as their wealth gives them the means of control and access to ‘defence’. The social circles of the rich rarely seem to hold them in check, as the person fades into the background, behind the wall of wealth, power and property.

Add to that, the racial abuse, by those whose money is made from the exploitation of lower-paid workers in foreign countries and the scope of the personal web to be untangled is daunting.

The ‘offence’ is clear and visible. What about the ‘punishment’ and who determines that? Many argue that a worker who shares an ‘unpopular view’ should be fired and lose their pension. A pension is an entitlement based on the worker’s and employer’s contributions over the term of their employment. How can any third party have a say or take away this? But, it is modern practice to deny those who offend a living, when they offend and do harm. There is no redemption offered by the extremes.

There is also a wider loss. What of the rest of us who are also denied the enjoyment of their considerable talents? Many still admire, for example, the books of JK Rowling, the music of Michael Jackson and the designs of John Galliano, when all have fallen foul of public opinion, many for good reason.
‘High and Low’ is a new documentary which deals with the considerable creative genius of fashion designer John Galliano and his fall from grace. Galliano had a spectacular career culminating in being Artistic Director of Givenchy and Dior.
Born in Gibraltar, this immigrant to London is also gay, so he should know about the consequences and price of discrimination, abuse and hatred. He had to deliver a staggering 32 collections each year for these two fashion houses. That level of creative output is jaw-dropping. The pressure is gruelling.

‘High and Low’ is the defence of Galliano, who in 2011 was videoed abusing people not only for being ‘ugly’ but he also noted his own admiration for Hitler. He states that the people sitting, by chance, at the table next to him would have been ‘gassed’. The couple subjected to this assault for talking too loudly were in fact of Asian origin. The drunken Galliano couldn’t tell the difference. What Galliano’s ignorance displays clearly includes that his idol would also have gassed Galliano for the very actions that created his privileged ego.

‘High and Low’ is the quintessential ‘if you are explaining you are losing’ film directed by Kevin McDonald. It opens and continues with Galliano’s face looming in the centre of the screen. Though a creative genius, he is not an intelligent man. He is vain, egotistical and driven by addictions to pills, booze and drugs. He is now sober and there is no great difference in his attitude.

He too, was surrounded by those who would never challenge him, because his incredible creative output was their source of income and success too. His ‘not so good looking’ friend Steven Robinson was his organiser and buffer. He invested all of his own skillset into the greatness of Galliano’s career. Robinson was found dead at 38. Models Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell and lover Alexi Roche have a different view of him and are eloquent in his defence. The interview with his main victim, Phillippe is emotional, as is the 7 years he took to apologise to his Jewish backer and friend, who contributed so much to his success.

A Jewish Rabbi who agreed to meet him after the three incidents in Cafe La Perle, wondered was he truly sorry or sorry because it affected his income drastically? You can make up your own mind as to which is true. He wore an outfit at his rehabilitative fashion a few years later in New York which was shockingly ignorant.

His couture designs were not only colourful, and inventive, they were inspired by stories of history and legend. He has a great observant eye. He sees so much and yet is blind to so much else. He loves 18th-century opulence and Napoleon. Perhaps he modelled himself on his hero, whose spectacular career also ended in failure.

It is hard to know if ‘High and Low’ is a documentary about the man or a huge ego, an addict and an alcoholic?

McDonald’s close-up style lets us see Galliano’s concept of truth. He is sober now, so perhaps his responses are more reliable? The close-up filming exposes him. When questioned about his parents, his understanding of anti-semitism, and his claim of selecting each bead of a multi embroidered outfit may lack credibility.
The man, who did nothing about the loss of his job by his best friend and muse and his PA because she appealed for help with his addiction remains. He is no great family man, though the handling of the interviews of his circle is intuitive and chronologically revealing.

The absence of any real apology for his anti-semitism leaves you wondering if there is a person left, after the entire emptying out of his lifestyle, from a crazy production line creativity output, alcoholism, prescription drugs and ego. Some people are very forgiving.

Galliano is designing again. We get a great insight into his vivid and colourful creativity and his hatred of ugliness. Ugliness comes in many forms. Much is subjective and cannot be helped. Much can be changed. Apparently, he still only holds the ugliness in others to account.